jet4571

But not a NG+ as so many call it, it's a continued game with a world reset with a chance of The Lodge part of the world to be different. NG+ is starting a new game while carrying over character levels, knowledge. and equipped gear and you have to do the tutorials with nothing changed in the world but character and gear levels.

CK doesn't do anything with models and textures except use them, those are made in third party programs(Paint.net for textures as an example) and once saved the CK cannot change them. Most textures are not even implemented through the CK but through the models in older games and now through a .mat file... the modern version of a .bgsm that's just a .JSON file that can be made in Notepad unlike .bgsm that wasn't even needed for FO4 or FO76 that uses them as all that could have been done in the .nif like previous games for the same exact results.

Best thing to do for dive spots in CAW well before placing the lot or EIG(Edit In Game) is place a radio tower in the ocean where you want the dive spot. If it is less than half underwater fly the camera under water and start awkward angle lowering the terrain and moving the tower until it is half under water. Use the flatten brush and flatten the undersea to that level a distance from shore then use the smooth/lower/raise brush to make a gradual transition from the shoreline to that flattened zone. Use raise and lower plus smoothing to make the sea bed surrounding where the dive spot will be to anything but flat(64x64 lot size is a good distance to randomize the sea floor around a dive spot so you don't need to do all of it. You can but nobody will se it). then terrain paint the sea bed the dark sand texture and feather it to the blue where the blue starts to disappear in CAW due to water depth if you used the blue. Ocean has proper depth for a dive spot, base sand texture in the dive spot and surrounding seabed, blue if you used it for that really fake tropical look still visible from the air and no dark spot in the ocean where the dive spot is. Perfect. Now delete the tower and place a 64x64 lot where it was and set it as a dive spot in CAW. (it becomes invisible unless you have the grid turned on in CAW so don't worry about it being missing in CAW later). Now save and edit in Game. Edit Town and select the dive spot, name it right away so even if you forget to after it will be done but I usually come up with a better name when making the lot and need to change it(better safe than sorry). Then edit the lot. As soon as the camera is done flying in DO NOT move it, instead go to the misc. section in Buydebug and filter for Island Paradise. Grab the dive spot buoy and place it roughly in the center of your screen, the center of your screen is the center of the lot in build/buy which is why you don't move the camera right away and you cannot see the borders of the lot from the surface making placing it problematic later. Ctrl+Shift+click the buoy and set the dive level you want. Next go down one level (like going to a basement) and first things first use the sand terrain paints to breakup the solid dark sand you painted in CAW, break it up not cover it as this is your base texture. Start with the combed sand, light sand, and last gritty sand. Fast taps with the mouse button or hold it down and quickly wave it about randomly. Don't go overboard, you just want it to be not all dark sand but mostly. And feather the dark sand last around the edges with light taps over really dark or light spots. Do not use the seafloor paint from island Paradise yet or the blue one ever in a dive spot. Best to never use the blue one in my opinion. Now go back to edit world and then back into build/buy to reset the camera to center. Drop down and start sculpting the terrain with the initial spot being centered under the buoy for the main part of the dive spot. Sculpt close to the edges of the lot but not all the way to it so it transitions nicely to the CAW sculpted terrain and makes it fit into the world as a natural interesting location for scuba. Around the perimeter of the lot lightly decorate with fewer decorations near the edges so it blends into the world a bit better. Next decorate the main attraction center(only add caves if you will have multiple dive spots as they can be buggy and send your sim to shore). In buydebug underwater objects and in community objects Misc. section of the build menu has the main things to place. You can add stuff from any section if it tickles your fancy such as a stove and Ctrl+Shift+Click to set it's charred state to... well charred. Decorate from the center outwards but leave spots of interest near the perimeter of the lot for exploration. Once all the corals and whatnot are placed you want to go into the Misc. section of buydebug and add an underwater treasure chest or two. Ctrl+Shift+click the chest to set the diving level the chest can be opened at and then the treasure content. Have 1 chest someplace near the main attraction in the center with loot that fits the dive spots level plus opened at or below that level and one somewhat hidden near the perimeter with higher level loot and lock status. Next you want to add bottle and shell spawners from RGM, sea life from the fish section, and harvestable kelp from the garden plants section of buydebug. Place sharks only in dive level appropriate dive spots and always Ctrl+Shift+Click them to set the amount to spawn(default is 5 making 20 sharks if you placed 4 of the spawners) and the species. Now we have the basics done and it's time for detail work to make it pretty, this is when the Island Paradise ocean floor terrain paint comes in. Paint splotches of that under rocks and coral feathered out to the base sand and use the other sand colors as well when needed. the ocean floor should be sand but sand under coral and rocks is not very pleasing to look at, it blends the rocks and coral into the environment and that's what you are doing. Once the texture pass is complete go back through everything of interest and add/adjust details as it will all look different than when first placed. Then go back through once again and tweak everything as some details may have been missed and just don't look right. Workflow in layers is best! Base sand breakup pass, terrain sculpt pass, initial decoration pass, terrain paint pass, detail + decorate again pass, and final check/tweak pass. If done right you should have a nice dive spot with a main attraction under the buoy that transitions to the undecorated rest of the ocean and all of it worth exploring because a chest might be in a hole near the corner of the lot with an anchor only visible from from a distance. Should have plenty of collectables to find and a couple treasure chests atleast.. From the air the dive spot shouldn't be noticeable with the seabed going from sandy shores to blue if you used it and to dark sand when the depths make the blue impossible to see. Now it's ready for saving and exporting to be tested, which most likely means tweaking it in Build/buy once again lol. Once you have a couple dive spots in your world add the caves to them if they were not planned from the start and link the caves to the other dive spots from the Ctrl+Shift+Click options. For shorelines... Once the shore is done before placing shoreline lots paint the dark sand at max settings right up to the water line. Next go with the light sand at 10 or 15 scale and 10/10 for the other two settings and paint a line where the edge of the brush touches the water line and again halfway between the initial paint and the water line, continue for all the shoreline as well as light sand the beaches much further in(don't worry about jagged dark sand paint showing at the water edge, that's for when you are done with the light sand). Now using the same brush settings you swap to the dark sand and make a pass or two directly on the shoreline where the water meets land. One maybe two passes until the jagged base dark sand edges blends in. Now you have sand along the shore that goes from wet to dry that's ready for the game or as a base for when details are added and/or they need some other ground texturing. If you use the blue seabed texture for a tropical look feather the dark sand and blue texture some distance from shore so it looks like sand from shore. Honestly I would never use the blue one since it makes the ocean look as fake as Sims 4 grass that looks like spilled green paint. A few random splotches of gritty or combed sand along the shore also looks good but if overdone doesn't look good so be subtle with the detail painting. If all was done right with terrain paints it means you did little to correct mistakes, make the oops into random variations. Going to be many of them where your painting overlaps each other so try to make them fit as randomness rather than try for perfection since no shoreline is ever perfect. Just don't sneeze when painting the initial dark sand and put a strip of it down right across your central park and city hall lots. That's just bad and I did it with finished lots lol. *Edit, Since we are talking oceans and shores. You see suggestions for adding WAVES to your shorelines all over the internet. Yeah makes sense, you want WAVES lapping your shores. So you filter Metadata and check Effects for waves, there are some so you line your whole 1k mile shoreline island with them.... to never see a one of them in the game. If you want waves lapping your shores you need to filter "Surf" instead of "Wave" because EA is stupid and thinks surf and waves are completely different and yet the same but backwards in the metadata search. Surf is the big waves surfers desire, everything else is a wave.

Easy, select him in the console and type "tai" without quotes. He will effectively become a statue until you open the console and type it again TAI is Toggle AI on/off, without an NPC selected it affects all NPCs with one selected it only affects it. Very handy for escort missions in Bethesda games turn their AI off at the start clear the place and then turn the AI back on and go have a snack while it navigates to you.

Bat files are just console commands, bat is short for batch which is a batch of console commands to run. Very handy to use since it saves allot of time typing out a bunch of commands, I use them with Skyrim, bat file for perks I want and have no desire to level up and another for crafting mats giving me 100 of each... start a new game and run them. As for the .ini files the last one to run during game load is the one from docs so all it's settings take precedence, as for being in the game folder.. dunno.. And if you are downloading a bunch of them then install the new one to the desktop and open both in notepad, copy the desktop one into the docs one with each setting in the proper section not just copy the whole thing and end up with a dozen [General] categories. Then once done doing that copy over the important settings you never want reset and manual ini edits you did from the game created one just incase Bethesda decides to reset them... they have done that before.

Making an esp for SF is not at all complicated. Use FO4edit to make your game settings esp then change the header with a hex editor to say it is the new version of esp that starfield uses instead of FO4's. The method has been discussed with older titles before the XEdit team finished working on it. The problem is those esp's could corrupt your save file so always best to wait for proper tools from those who know how to figure out what Bugsthesda has done.

I don't know if this is possible but change the distance between the player and an NPC before the NPC starts looking at the player like they are a gross bug. Or set them to just not do that. It gets annoying when you are in a crowded area and NPC's start getting all crappy with you because you are 3-4 meters away from them... or worse when standing at a crosswalk and get "I WONT Buy Anything From YOU!" with the first NPC that stands next to you for 0.5 seconds. Then you look at them and they are looking at you like you are a gross bug. That shouldn't happen at more than a meter distance away in a big city, people ignore each other. Trying to do the quest Johnny provides for bootleg tapes... talking to the old man who has them and some NPC decides I am invading her space when she was the one that walked up and stood next to me... I moved closer to her just because. Felt like decking her.

Yeah using the vanilla assets is a tad over the top for the player, games not fun if you can't see it. Which is why I decided to just go with a magic burning scabbard... the swords so magical the scabbard can't contain it lol. I have a scripted effect in the enchantment that adds the flames to the target, but right now it doesn't do anything but that, silence for 60 seconds, and the normal fire damage. Maybe figure out how to make it a scripted DOT and lose the normal fire damage. Can't script my way out of a paper bag lol... art here not programming lol. scn AAFireSwordMagicEffectSCR short damage begin ScriptEffectStart PlayMagicShaderVisuals AAeffectFireDamage end begin ScriptEffectUpdate set damage to -10 * ScriptEffectElapsedSeconds modav health, damage end begin ScriptEffectFinish StopMagicShaderVisuals AAeffectFireDamage end That should be a DOT, taken from KurtTestMagicEffect script and standard apply effects when hit.

I decided I am going to just live with a burning scabbard. Did some tweaks to the fire effect, randomized the scale a bit more then randomized what fire texture would start first... then made a purple flame version to go with the enchantment I am making for it. Script effect that does the purple flames effect on the target when hit... same as the vanilla fire enchantment just purple. So I have regular fire and magic fire for enchantments. Anywho thanks for the help, and here's the purple fire blade... How to make is easy, copy the FireOpenSmall.nif NiBillboardNode and paste into an empty nif like null.nif from the magiceffects directory. Then copy that .nif NiNode into your sword .nif. Now open the NibillboardNode and select AttachLight, DmageSphere, and EditorMarker NiNodes and right click and remove branch. You don't need them in your nif and the editor marker is visible in the game, so save a few bytes by getting rid of those. Now use the Transform function on the NiBillboardNode to scale it and put it onto your blade. Then copy it and paste into the NiNode and repeat the translate so this one is further up the blade and a different size. Repeat that until the whole blade is covered. Scale... 0.1-0.2 works well. Next is randomizing the textures... Open the second NiBillboardNode and expand FireOpenSmall:0, NiTexturingProperty, and finally NiFlipController. There's your list of textures to rearrange. Change all of them in numerical order from say fireopensmall01.dds to fireopensmall04.dds, next one then becomes fireopensmall05.dds and so on and so forth until all were changed starting from fireopensmall04.dds and ending at fireopensmall03.dds. Repeat that with each of the NiBilboardNode's... skip 1 or two along the way if they cant be seen in first person if you don't want to do them all. And for fun do it all again with FireOpenSmall:2 Or remove that one like the EditorMarker like I did because I didn't want to deal with it since it will mostly be inside the blade. And if you want to recolor the fire like I did or outright replace with dancing snowmen or something... that's the list of textures to do. Also in the FireParticles-Emmiter nodes is another single texture.

Yeah I removed those two lines and tested it, the purple and black thing was removed, but I removed the lines because the fail sound would endlessly repeat. Need to add Doonce to it, unsheath set doonce to 0 sheath and set to 1 after the fail sound. The PME STRP was pretty cool, the test box I use to add items for testing had the purple and black when the sword was stored in it and I added a sword to the nearest container and it did it to that too... Could be a cool effect to use for a haunted container or something. Anywho I don't think the script is doing what I wanted, it's turning the normal enchantment effect on and off which I don't really care if it gets turned on and off. Unless I am missing something about that effect adding a fire nif to the sword which would work perfectly. I have both fire and sword in one nif and fire and sword in separate nifs. I have like 30 swords so having the effect separate makes it easier to add to another later as half the swords have the same length blade.

Well theres 11 of them now, 10 small fires and 1 small torch at the tip because the torch gives off more sparks when waved around. They are all in an NiNode named MagicEffect and they are named MagicEffect:0 to 11 like parts in the Scn are named Scn:0 and Scn:1. Used that script and it refused to compile. It won't let me make a new magic effect, which that script looks to be dealing with, tried a vanilla one and again no compile. Checked your mod and it does an effect shader "PlayMagicShaderVisuals" So I used that instead of PlayMagicEffectVisuals. Duplicated the fire effect for the script... scn AAFireSwordEffectSCR begin GameMode If (IsWeaponOut) PlayMagicShaderVisuals AAeffectFireDamage else StopMagicShaderVisuals AAeffectFireDamage pme STRP playsound SPLMysticismFail endif end And the result was: Not exactly what I was expecting. Purple cloud with black smoky tendrils...

Is there any way to hide effects when a weapon is sheathed? I have a flame effect on the blade of a new sword and would like it to not be visible when in the scabbard. As it is the scabbard looks like it is on fire which is kinda cool but it is the blade that is supposed to be on fire and would look better if the flames popped in after the blade is drawn and disappear once sheathed. Kinda cool when you take a small camp\fireplace fire model and add it to a sword blade, reduce it's size(also remove a couple parts) and clone a few times. Just don't use the small and large torch effects at ~0.1 scale and duplicated in a line covering a 3 1/2 foot long blade.... 75 FPS to 30 in the game and Nifskope was lagging halfway through. 5 small fires and no performance loss compared to 40? torches.

And that just saved me from going insane. Had the same exact issue... couldn't make supply lines or send settlers to mod settlements except it was on a new game with all the settlements working correct on the previous one and nothing changed in the load order except I added some basic followers to the top of the list with other followers. Turned out I forgot I added a green commonwealth/nukaworld/far harbor mod 6 months before after I already had working settlements and those were below the settlements in the load order. "Possibly the relevant Cell(s) don't have the proper Location/Encounter Zone assigned." Was the issue for me.

Yeah I understand how FormID's work. I have authored more than 150 mods here and been making mods since the 90's (though the years is irrelevant since I only started modding Bethesda games with Oblivion). But I have been using Xedit to merge or split up mods for years now and never broke a mod by doing it... well a few times forget one or more bits such as a texture set or oops an armor addon but all easily remedied. Worse break is when forgetting to change FormID's before merging then opening up in the CK and the CK decides to rename and break links such as armor addon with armors or OMod parts with weapons in FO4 and saving the plugin without consent baking in the breakage. Anyway if I fubar my plugin I have it backed up or if I miss something in a merge or split I can fix it... or I could remake the whole thing which I don't want to do ever. PEBKAC is the issue and why they never should have advertised a game editor to mod manager users who don't even know how to browse Windows Explorer to get to the game files. A mod cleaning tool that removes ITM's or fixes other minor issues? Sure, that would be handy but also something that should be part of the mod manager because PEBKAC is real. There should have been a user and an author version of Xedit, author allows breaking mods because of no limits while user only cleans them. If you are a mod author and use it and break your mod you know you screwed up. Users blame the tool. Unless it's the CK and it's save the plugin without consent during the load and baking in errors it creates that XEdit could have been used to fix before they would be an issue to the CK the next time it was loaded if the CK didn't save. Anywho I am done with this topic, I wont be updating XEdit for any game I have it on now and future games I wont make my own .esm mods I may want to merge other mods into or split it up later. Just an esp so I can use the CK to remove the .esp master by loading it into the CK and then saving it without changing anything.... don't even think saving is needed unless the CK is trolling and only saves when it breaks mods lol. Wouldn't be surprised.

I have never had a broken plugin by removing masters. I use Xedit all the time to merge esp mods with copy as override or deep copy then remove the master Xedit automatically sets. Well first thing is change all the FormID numbers so theres no duplicates and then the CK breaking crap by changing the name to have duplicate00000000001 but not changing whatever uses it to point at that(and then saving it automatically so you can exit it without saving and fix the ID's). Stupid CK lol. As for what you suggest there was nothing in the .esp that relied on the master because I swapped it out for an empty .esm of the same name. All the entries started with 01 instead of 02 and thus Xedit wouldn't change the FormID or clean the master... but it did remove Fallout4.esm when I did clean Masters which would have broke the mod. Only option to change the FormID was manually, one at a time and with over 300 that was a huge Nope. Fixed it though by copying and old XEdit from a backup FO4 and pasting into the working directory then opened the mod and right click remove. Done in less time than it took to load it and works perfectly in the game. *Edit, I have a mod on the hot files right now that was originaly made in the master I am moving other armors to their own mod when i discovered the newer version ofd Xedit won't let me remove the .esm. It works perfectly fine after removing the .esm. So no it isn't luck that prevents a mod from getting broken and removing masters wont break them unless you didn't copy over everything needed and that's not Xedit's fault or removing the master itself but PEBKAC.