RobinHood2005

Thanks to your reply we got the motivation to approach the issue again and managed to get the account recovered. The way we did it was through getting Blizzard to look at the IP addresses used to access the account (which changed massively once it was hacked) to prove that the account was stolen. So if anyone experiences an issue like this and doesn't have ID/other proof of ownership, then I suggest writing to support and saying that. Should do the trick. Cheers pal.

Hello, my friend's Blizzard account was somehow taken over, despite him having 2 factor authentication enabled (neither of us know how this possibly could have happened). His email and password for that account have been changed and he has received a notification for his Steam Guard showing that someone has attempted to log into the account, since that Steam account was linked to his Blizzard account. The hacker has seemingly been unable to access the Steam account and we have not received any emails from Steam about any attempted email or password changes. We have, however, changed the password to the account just in case. Upon trying to submit a ticket to Blizzard, it asked for an ID, which he didn't want to provide (we aren't sure how that will prove ownership or why it is necessary anyway). Is there any alternative way to submit a ticket? For example, by providing a screenshot of a purchase confirmation email, as is the case with Steam? And very importantly, is my friend's Steam account safe, since he has Steam Guard enabled? Thank you for taking the time to read this and I hope you have some ideas on how this situation can be helped.

Thanks for the advice. Do I need to buy one specifically for my motherboard or are they all the same? I've only needed to replace a CMOS battery 2 or maybe 3 times, but each time all I did was pop the old one out (after taking note of which side was down in the holder) and checking the numbers on it. I seem to recall the last one I did I found the replacement at Crappy Tire (Canadian Tire for those not living in the "Frozen North" ... that is not frozen at all at the moment). Right, thanks for the advice. Any special way I should store/dispose of the old one?

Thanks for the advice. Do I need to buy one specifically for my motherboard or are they all the same?

Right, pretty much every day since I built the PC I would turn off the PSU and the socket after turning it off. Not doing so seems to fix the issue.

As old as the motherboard itself, so three years or so, I think. That's when I bought it in new condition.

For a couple of days now I have had an issue where my PC would start, the light on the power button would turn on and then everything would seemingly shut down after a second or two. Then, my PC would turn back on and instead of booting normally it would give me an 'American Megatrends' screen which would tell me that I needed to run setup. Upon going into the BIOS, my settings would all be reset. I'd change them, then quit the BIOS and boot up as normal. Apart from this, I have noticed that the time Windows displays seems to be affected and I have to sync it, though the PC otherwise functions normally. I opened up my case yesterday and nothing seemed to be loose or out of place on the motherboard. Help?

UPDATE: sent a help request to Steam. Hopefully they'll respond ASAP.

I don't know where to post this but I'm posting this here because the users of this forum have been helpful in the past and I've heard that Steam tends to be slow to help. My friend's Steam account was recently hacked, so we tried to recover it. When we were given the option to recover it via a code sent to an email address, the email that was shown was one that we did not recognise (it must have been the hacker's). Since we obviously did not have access to said email, and my friend's dad (who controls the PayPal account associated with the Steam account) was not willing to log into PayPal to provide proof of ownership due to security concerns, we were taken to a page on which we were given a code and the option to 'self-lock' the account. The page also said that we were supposed to be getting emailed instructions of when to unlock the account and how, but we never received an email. Presumably, this means that the hacker received an email, which makes me call into question how effective the self-locking method is and how it works. NOTE: My friend's profile has gone almost completely blank (as in, the only things visible are his name and profile pic). Aside from this happening, the hacker doesn't seem to have been active since we self-locked the account. Could this be proof of the self-lock working? NOTE 2: My friend changed his email account password and his dad changed his PayPal password. His PC was also fully scanned with the free version of Avast, but since free Avast isn't the best security software out there, the concerns persist. Question: Would it be safe to try the PayPal proof method on another PC that we know isn't compromised, say, mine? What are the ramifications of attempting this at all? Please advise, as I need urgent help.

Are you referring to the scaling options from the dropdown menu or the one where you can type in a custom scaling size in 'advanced saling settings'? Because I'm referring to the latter. The former 'works' but has issues with blurry text and the like. If you get too far from your native resolution, yeah, that's gonna be a problem. I think Win 10 also has a setting to help correct that.... Have a read here. That *might* help. No dice. The software that was linked with the article you mentioned seems to work exactly the same as Windows custom scaling. That is - it fixes the issue, but it applies the scaling option to both monitors as opposed to just one, which I don't want.

Are you referring to the scaling options from the dropdown menu or the one where you can type in a custom scaling size in 'advanced saling settings'? Because I'm referring to the latter. The former 'works' but has issues with blurry text and the like.

I've posted on this forum before regarding the issues I've had with a dual monitor setup where one monitor is 4k and the other is 1080p and I've found that setting a custom scaling setting fixes all of the blurry text issues I had with the 4k one. However, when I apply a custom scaling setting, it gets applied to both monitors, not just one, which makes the 1080p monitor look really zoomed in, which I don't want. Is there any way to apply individual custom scaling settings to both monitors? Are there any third party softwares that help to do this?

Nevermind, fixed the issue. Turns out I had to put a coloured ink cartridge in for the printer to finally work. This theoretically makes no sense, since I set to image to be printed in black and white, but that's what made it work, so I guess I can't complain.

I tried using the HP Print and Scan Doctor (or whatever the software is called) and it detected no issues except it would just give out a blank page when I tried to print a test page.

Hello all, I have a HP DeskJet 3700 Printer which I have set up to print wirelessly. Today I tried to print a black and white image using said printer, but the paper that I inserted into the printer would simply pass through it and come out blank. Normally, I would reinstall the drivers, but that has not helped. The printer itself is definitely connected, as it comes up as 'Ready' on my PC and it also has a black ink cartridge inside of it, which the printer says is full. Any help?