Blender UV Mapping

[Snowman1944]

Okay, so here is the problem. I know what a texture map is supposed to look like, and when I use the Smart UV Project in Blender it comes out as is shown on the right. That is NOT what it's supposed to look like for a game (at least I've never seen one in a billion pieces like that).
I know a lot of people hate Blenders UV mapping but I am unable to purchase Maya or 3ds Max so I'm stuck with it. Keeping in mind the model at the left, my question is how would I go about creating the seams in the proper places with my model? I've searched the forums, I've spent hours upon hours looking for and watching tutorials. I found a couple really good videos, but they always seem to be UV Mapping a single mesh, where as mine contains about 40.
Do I have to combine all the meshes into a single one (as shown below) or can I do each one separately then somehow combine them later into one image? I'm wracking my brain trying to figure this out and I can't for the life of me seem to find anything that actually helps me figure this out. So I figured posting this was my last good chance at getting at least some explanations on what I am doing wrong and maybe even some tricks on doing it right.

Also, can I do my UV mapping in 2.71 and then have it work when I put it into 2.49b, or should I do the UV mapping in 2.49?
I apologize for having to ask this here in the forums, but as I stated earlier I've come up with nothing that helps me elsewhere and it's certainly not for lack of trying.

I've put over 40 hours of straight work in this and I really want to be able to get it working in game and share it with everybody. :)

Thank you in advance for any help that can be given!

[imu333]

Your model seems to have a high poly count, which would not work in-game, so first I'd recommend you to create a low poly mesh.

 

When you've created a low poly model you'll see that unwrapping will be much easier!

 

You can unwrap meshes individually, and later combine them and either pack them manually into the UV, or use Blender's "Pack Islands" feature.

Use 2.71 for unwrapping.

 

About seam placement, the most important is to minimize stretch. Try to put the seams where they're least visible, or where they'd naturally be. (between two materials, wood and metal for example. or seams and weldings)

TIP: Think of how you'd unfold for example, a cylinder in real life.

[Snowman1944]

Okay, I will work on making a low poly model then and try everything again. Thank you so much for your advice! :thumbsup:

[jet4571]

I wouldn't completely redo the model but start optimizing it by removing extra vertices. I don't use Blender but in a few seconds I found a tutorial that shows 2 methods, I am sure there are many more available.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ttU6Gz1W0Xw

[Snowman1944]

I hadn't even considered removing extra vertices was a possibility. That video is invaluable, thank you so much for sharing it with me. This was my first attempt at modeling so I am still learning what is and isn't possible and what different things do. (I've been reading all the tuts I can find, including the noob to pro wiki.)
I had actually already started remaking the entire model because I thought I was stuck. You may have just saved my model.

Again, I am very grateful for your time. :)

[jet4571]

For a first time that's a great quality model. As for poly reduction it is actually common practice to make the model in higher poly then reduce it after. Reason being it is easier to make it look better by going high poly then reduce the details than it is to make a low poly look better by adding details. Take the holes you made for instance, 32 sides will look perfectly round for something like a tire and a hole on a weapon could look as round with 16 sides, if you go with 32 sides to begin with it is easier to reduce them than it would be to add more if 16 doesn't quite look right. It may sound like more work making a higher poly model then reducing poly count but in reality it is faster and makes for a better quality low poly model.

 

Also I highly suggest learning more about normal maps and texture baking. You can add allot of details with normal maps so if you consider what details a normal map can do you can save time not making that detail in the model.

 

Last but not least... search for tutorials and eat them like candy. Start simple with the search term like "blender reduce poly count " which got me that search result. Have fun making models.

[Snowman1944]

Sounds good! One last question, what is the maximum acceptable limit for tris or polys in Fallout 3 and NV? My pulse rifle started out with 29k tris, I now have it down to 16k. I can still take out maybe another few thousand but that is about all I'm going to be able to squeeze out I think.
Thanks again for the advice and help! You made my day so much better. :D

[Edit]: Just some additional info in case it's relevant. Verts: 9048 - Edges: 14829 - Faces/Polys: 5775

Edited August 9, 2014 by Snowman1944

[neomonkeus]

The hard limit on vertices per NiTriShapeData is 65,535.

A tri-count does not map directly to how it will be exported, as due to the format, vertices may need to be duplicated, i,e along uv seams, vertex color & normal boundaries.

 

That said, you should concern yourself with keeping your model optimal through the modelling process.

Comparing your model against another model of similar type to keep a rough guide for what the final model needs to be.

Additional techniques such as decimation, hi-2-low nomal baking and retopologising allow you to optimise your mesh.

 

Splitting your model into multiple object avoids some issues, but good modellers will as you are doing attempt to keep their model performant.

A pretty model with millions of poly is no good if you can't have fun if it lags the game.

[jet4571]

Vanilla assault carbine is 4,514 verts, a popular mod G36 has 5,706 verts, and a popular mod that has an M4 Silenced with Aimpoint optics is 18,928 verts. I wouldn't be overly concerned with less than 10k verts but definitely optimize it.

 

As for what I was saying about going with higher poly for the model I wasn't saying go for millions of poly, I was saying to go with higher poly details such as the holes you have in your model and starting with more faces for the hole then reduce as much as you can so it still looks round in the game still. If it looks like an octagon in the game when it is supposed to be round you reduced too much so you reduce it less next time. If you go with as few a sides as you can like say 8 sides and it looks like an octagon in the game it is harder to increase the sides than it is to reduce. So yes go with more poly than you will have at the final stage because you should always optimize it after. But not with the whole model either, just the details that can be culled back after you see it in the game.

 

Theres other things to keep in mind as well, the closer the camera is to the model the more details that will be noticeable. the left side and top should have more details than the right side and bottom because those are right in front of the camera. So a hypothetical button on the left side might be best to use the normal map to give it shape or have half the verts compared to the same button on the right side.

[Snowman1944]

Wonderful! Thanks again, you guys are the best! :smile:

Edited August 9, 2014 by Snowman1944