PC Build Recommendations

[hector530]

i7 2600k a week before the new processor generation

16GB of ram.

1TB RAID 0 over a SSD.

2GB 560ti.

optical drives.

sound card

network card.

and last but not least, a prebuilt?

 

really.

 

You're also paying about $2000 too much.

 

Just go with a 570 and i5/AMD FX.

It's better to buy a $1000 system yearly than to try to spend $4000 for two.

 

i dont think ivy bridge comes out next week. but 16 gigs of ram for a gaming PC is way overkill. also whatever card or cards you get do not reference cards. MSI and EVGA cards are overclocked to the point of the higher card such as a 560 overclocked to somewhat the level of a stock 570 and a 570 overlocked to somewhat the level of a 580. also building a PC seems impossible at first, its pretty easy. this PC im using (my sig has the specs) was the first PC i ever built before that i didnt know anything about hardware. the internet has nice guides and youtube has how-to videos. also you will save a lot of money. i was gonna get a pre-built till a friend talked me out of it. my pre-built was 2500+ without monitor and keyboard this PC with razer naga mouse, keyboard and monitor was 1500.

[urbex]

i dont think ivy bridge comes out next week.

was referencing fx bulldozers.

[amullinix]

When I was younger, I would build PC's with my father. Pre-builds, as I have been led to believe, are those that are ALREADY made, and I simply choose a version. What I have been doing is researching pieces, and selecting them depending on what I want. Going through a company such as ibuypower, does not mean I am selecting their pre-builds. Though they have many very nice ones that could do exactly what I wanted to, for about 1500 less than what I am willing to pay. I am basically selecting one, then gutting it and replacing it with the parts I want. Recent additions to the gaming community have shown my rig it's age, making me look forward on a new one.

 

@hector530

You're right. It would be much lighter on the wallet to simply build my own tower. After seeing your specs, and reading responses on this thread and on my 'Graphics Cards' thread, I believe that is exactly what I will be doing. If you wouldn't mind though, I'd like to run each new piece I select by you through PM, so you can see what I am looking at and let me know if I am off my rocker.

 

EDIT:

It's better to buy a $1000 system yearly than to try to spend $4000 for two.

 

I spent $3,000 (USD) for the tower I have now, and it's been nearly four years since the purchase. It only just now began showing it's age. I won't just jump the gun and get what's good for the year. I tend to lean in the direction of outlasting, instead of playing catch-up every year. Not that it isn't a good idea. Some people can do that. I try to get as much knowledge as I can in the pieces I select, before making the purchase. Hence this thread, and my 'Graphics Cards' thread.

Edited June 3, 2011 by amullinix

[urbex]

spent $3,000 (USD) for the tower I have now, and it's been nearly four years since the purchase. It only just now began showing it's age. I won't just jump the gun and get what's good for the year. I tend to lean in the direction of outlasting, instead of playing catch-up every year. Not that it isn't a good idea. Some people can do that. I try to get as much knowledge as I can in the pieces I select, before making the purchase. Hence this thread, and my 'Graphics Cards' thread.

3000/4 years = $750 on a new computer each year. Is your previous build really as powerful as a 560ti/i5 2500k would be now?

But yeah, just a tip, the PC buying guide is constantly updated and pretty flawless as far as build recommendations go.

[amullinix]

3000/4 years = $750 on a new computer each year. Is your previous build really as powerful as a 560ti/i5 2500k would be now?

But yeah, just a tip, the PC buying guide is constantly updated and pretty flawless as far as build recommendations go.

 

Just a note, that's 3000 four years ago... not sure how it would fare in 'todays market'. But I get the point you were making.

 

It also boils down to preference. If I can get something made that costs 3000 once, and it lasts for three years, it would be the same to buy 1000 worth of tower a year for three years. Again, that doesnt mean it's a good idea, or a bad one, just not one I want to do. I like being able to have it for a few years, before having to replace it. Thats just me.

 

Like I said though, I do get the point you were making. I'm not done doing my research; I simply posted the towers here to see reactions, and see which pieces are better (in a consumers eyes) since my knowledge on the matter is not up-to-date.

 

EDIT: I'm at work. The link you provided is blocked :confused:

Edited June 3, 2011 by amullinix

[hector530]

i wouldnt mind if PM'd me just run though what you picked. also i recommend shopping at newegg.com, if you dont live in cali and tigerdirect.com if you do to avoid the BS 10% internet tax.

[urbex]

Yeah, I completely get your point, you just sounded like you really enjoyed building computers.

[amullinix]

Alright guys, went through newegg for a while and came up with the list in the spoiler tags. Tear it apart the same ways you did the other three, but also understand I am just starting to get a grasp on truly building my own system.

 

 

 

 

COOLER MASTER HAF 932 Advanced RC-932-KKN5-GP Black Steel ATX Full Tower Compucase Case with USB 3.0 and Black Interior

Model #:RC-932-KKN5-GP

Item #:N82E16811119160

 

Seagate Barracuda XT ST32000641AS 2TB 7200 RPM SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive

Model #:ST32000641AS

Item #:N82E16822148506

(note: I'm not a fan of spending 200, 300, 400 for SSD when they don't have the HD space I want)

 

Acer G235HAbd 23'' WideScreen LCD monitor

Model #:ET.VG5HP.A01

Item #:N82E16824009266

 

EVGA SuperClocked 012-P3-1572-AR GeForce GTX 570 (Fermi) 1280MB 320-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support ...

Model #:012-P3-1572-AR

Item #:N82E16814130595

(note: I know you all mentioned the 580, or SLI 560 Ti's, but I felt this might be a steady balance, possibly stronger than I really needed.)

 

TEAC Black IDE/ATAPI DVD-ROM Drive Model DV516E/B/S

Model #:DV516E/B/S

Item #:N82E16827139040

 

COOLER MASTER Silent Pro Gold Series RSA00-80GAD3-US 1000W ATX 12V v2.3 / EPS 12V v2.92 SLI Ready CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS ...

Model #:RSA00-80GAD3-US

Item #:N82E16817171056

 

CORSAIR DOMINATOR 6GB (3 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Triple Channel Kit Desktop Memory Model TR3X6G1600C8D

Model #:TR3X6G1600C8D

Item #:N82E16820145224

 

GIGABYTE GA-X58A-UD3R LGA 1366 Intel X58 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard

Model #:GA-X58A-UD3R

Item #:N82E16813128423

 

Intel Core i7-2600K Sandy Bridge 3.4GHz (3.8GHz Turbo Boost) LGA 1155 95W Quad-Core Desktop Processor BX80623I72600K

Model #:BX80623I72600K

Item #:N82E16819115070

(note: This is just for now, to fill the gap. I'm not sure when exactly I will be getting the rig, but I would rather be complete now, and change a part or two later.)

 

Subtotal: $1,701.40 <-- Not including the mouse and keyboard, since I have those already, this is approximately 1500 less then what I am willing to pay. Let me know if I missed something (I know there isn't a sound card; mobo looks to have a great one as is.)

 

 

 

Also, looking at adding Zalman heatsinks: this one, and this one.

[Nysba]

I don't really know anything about HDDs or DVD drives, but what I do know is that PSU (power supply) is overkill, at least for now. Unless you go SLI, and since you have 1500 more on the budget, I say go for it. It would be overkill probably, for most games, but at least you won't lag :P

and with SLI the 1000Watt PSU wouldn't be overkill, at least as much as what it would be with only 1 GPU.

But if you're not going SLI and just want to have the 1 GTX 570, a 600-700 Watt power supply should be enough. But with the 1000 you'll have lots of upgrade room ;)

 

About the CPU cooler, check out the NH-D14, one of the best, if not THE best, air coolers out there. Should fit in your case, but make sure to find out for yourself.

 

EDIT: Now that I look at your list there again, you CANNOT put an LGA 1155 CPU, the i7 2600k, into a motherboard with the LGA 1366 socket, the X58A. So change the motherboard. The LGA 1155 motherboards are also generally cheaper than the 1366 ones (the one you have in your list) so that's a plus too.

Edited June 4, 2011 by Nysba

[amullinix]

Yeah that was something I should have found out myself, but got in the heat of selecting pieces. This is my first time taking a risk in making my own rig and as a result I got a little excited. When I get to work (since I'll have nothing to do) I'll re-research each piece to ensure compatibility. Thanks Nysba and Hector (he messaged me the same thing you did)!