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Does anyone have any advice for dealing with the Bethesda Stutter?


Bruhmis

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it is. I just don't want to start installing windows before I get my work done for next week - I've had some serious problems relating to secondary OS installations before and I don't want to risk it until I have everything finished and backed up.

 

especially since the windows 10 installer seems to have a mind of its own. one of the many basic things they managed to make a mess of with windows 10.

On amazon.com, you can pick up HDD's for laptops that are sata drives which work 100% faster and better in a desktop PC. here is the key, you can get a 1 tera for under $20.00..To experiment on a cheap drive is a lot better then tampering with the root of an ssd drives Boot sector.

 

The links about the mother boards contain internal links that describe all the pitfalls of ssd setups.

Knowing the thing you mentioned about 10's miss-behaviors deals with boot BCD errors or qualifiers is known to me.

IF you upgrade over top, you stand a chance of messing up the root.

 

IF you install new? you still need a prior system in place. The flash drive must contain an extracted ISO image downloaded and setup exposed in loose file format on that flash drive as a boot media.

 

The anniversary version comes in only one manner and it is not wanted, at least not for this purpose, that's down the road a bit.

My tricky methods allow me to make decisions based on old testing practices, so I have the ability to know first hand what to do and what not to do as far as installing the Glitched windows mess. On the drive ,the target drive, a twin partition is required. You want a windows 7 or 8 on the second partition set as primary and installed, booting from it. then you upgrade and target C: the first partition as an upgrade system.

 

though the second part will become null, it will still retain BCD data and hidden boot sectors on it...the sorting points for later use.

Once you have established 10-64 on root of part 1, it should allow you to dual boot. the #2 part should boot but you will find out win 10 destroys it's legality and tried to disqualify it's use. that's ok.

 

A flash drive, this would be a cd imaged extracted for windows 7 on it, in loose file format, you run it's setup directly from root of C: in windows 10 64 from the desktop targeting D:, during post boot you will notice the events of the Operating systems which will now take president, you want 7 to boot 1rst always. your choice as to what bit factor you want. I use 7 32bit so I can use all the tools on an externally targeted drive that contains all my steam products and others..all of which require a 32bit format. This is an override for Emulation from 64 bit systems, I use the second drive win 7 for all my media control, editing software which makes every thing "Native" and no conversion mess.

 

Fo4's comes with a CK that is a 32bit program. But, there are things you need to know in order to run it on a 32bit system. you can't run anything designed for 64 bit on 32bit OS.

 

IF you leave windows 10 as the first choice, in the back ground, 10 will destroy sectors on drive / Partition #2. On Redmond tech site, there is a section that covers dual boots and just how badly they do not want you to do this. You reverse the technology and see what you need to over come to circumvent the problems 10 will produce, this is hard to explain. But I think you get me?

 

On a cheap $14.00 drive, you can afford to make mistakes and learn the exact process. Don't do this on an ssd drive.

 

you need to have a plan set up for that first.

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  1. Flash drive 1 contains loose windows 10-64 OS
  2. Flash drive 2 contains loose windows 7 32 bit OS
  3. Target drive sata laptop and or desktop is a hdd type drive (used to test installers)
  4. performance drive (ssd) will be after you know for certain what you want to do will be absolutely last.
  5. SSD will be the target for final decisions made.
  6. Root, partition on ssd part 1 should be just big enough (Twice the size the OS requires) for boots.
  7. Secondary on SSD part 2 is your 32bit media support drive.
  8. USB storage drive should be left as a source drive that contains all media used, it can store anything you need. Games, software, tools.

Just an outline for basic "keeps"

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You must have, at your disposal a 32bit kernel OS to use most tools we use for games as most games need it.

Windows writes it's own format signatures to all files. Think of 32bit as a universal signature which will operate on any system.

 

we know that is not true with 64 bit files. you can not run or upload 64bit written files to websites. This is the # 1 cause of sloppy editing.

Windows 10 writes to all files.

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Well, I wasn't planning on installing windows on the SSD. I was just going to make a new partition on my storage drive and install it on that. 1 TB for $20 sounds pretty enticing anyway, though.

but yesterday a friend expressed interest in buying my motherboard off of me - so this might be an opportunity to upgrade to a better motherboard and rule out that as a problem (as well as a fresh installation of windows once the motherboard is installed).

how can I tell if a motherboard will "support" my SSD? and how can I tell if the storage controller will be a bottleneck? I never see anything like that in the specifications.

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Above, I posted a set of spoilers for you to view, and there should be links. On that site, it will give you the name brands that carry the tech and should provide a guide line to go by. Other than just ssd coverage, you need a board of choice to be both VGA and hdmi along with DVI connectivity, think ahead for possible connections to a TV set.

 

Blue tooth devices, android things, that sort of thing. because you own a intel Processor ? that site is what I posted about, sort of an assist.

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new egg or the site you use and there is yet several others too you can shop at, the only thing is , no one has ssd labeled as a requirement yet.

 

If you intend to keep the predecessor, that will be the first thing to go by, then the drive, then what ever else you believe you might need.

 

I shop a lot, but what I spend is out of site becasue I don't care about price. lol, so don't do as I do, do as I say.

 

If I had it my way, I would bankrupt the publisher.

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the only thing I'm confused about is SSD performance. I've read over the last couple of days that the motherboard can severely impact SSD performance (some of the benchmarks I've looked at illustrate this very clearly). even the Kingston support guy said that - but the explanation is always very vague. I have no idea what to look for in a motherboard to make sure it's not going to bottleneck my SSD like my current one is.

the one I'm looking at is apparently capped out at 1000 MB/s which is well above my SSD's capacity - so hopefully that'll be good enough.

I also can't seem to find these dirt cheap laptop hard drives you mentioned.

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