Etkini

My PC copy of Skyrim takes up 6GB of space.. If you had 16GB of RAM, 8-10GB devoted to a RAM drive would give you more than enough. For someone like me who leaves my PC on 24/7, and after the initial OC'ing rarely gets a crash, it's not a bad option...as it'll stay installed. With that said, there is no negative for having too much RAM. With it being as cheap as it is, throwing an extra $50 for another 8GB of PC3-1600 RAM isn't an insane adventure for most. Not that they're related, but look at the HDD prices of last year before the flood.. $49 for a 1TB harddrive. Now the prices are $150-200+, I see people selling HDDs left and right making a big profit. Technology is always changing...when I built my last rig three years ago I fell into that "Aww, 2GB of DDR2 is all I'll ever need!" bandwagon and a year later DDR3 became popular, prices shot up. DDR4 is expected to become popular in the next year or two, I can see the same thing happening. Rather to have and not need, than need and not have.. Unless of course you upgrade every year or two..then the point is nix.

I don't feel 16GB of DDR3 is too much.. it's pretty cheap right now so why not get it when you can? If you don't feel like you're using all of it, turn half of it into a RAM drive. The downside it, you'll have to also set up a program to reinstall whatever you had on the RAM drive at every boot, but on the plus side performance-wise it'll blow any HDD or SSD out of the water. As for the GTX560Ti vs GTX570 discussion, two GTX560Tis ($400) is 20%+ faster than a single GTX580. Unless you're running a resolution higher than 1920x1080 or 1900x1200, more than 1GB of video RAM isn't really necessary.. there's only a few games out right now that can even take advantage of it (Metro 2033, GTA IV, Crysis 2), and I can guarantee by the time you'll really NEED to use the full 2GB of video RAM, your CPU will be the bottleneck. What resolution do you plan on playing at mostly? Also, have you looked at Z68 as opposed to P67? Pros\cons of each, that is? Not that there's real cons of either, but with the particular motherboard you have, if you chose to, you couldn't do SLI or Crossfire.

Just received my new system.. so update. Chassis: Corsair 500R MB: ASRock Extreme3 Gen3 Z68 CPU: Intel Core i5 2500K @ 3.3GHz Heatsink: Noctua NH-D14 GPU: Gigabyte Geforce GTX560Ti 1GB (OC'ed a bit) RAM: GSkill RipjawsX DDR3-12800 8GB (another 8GB coming in..somehow missed the shipment) HD: 1x 500GB Hitachi and 1x 500GB WD SATA PSU: Ultra 750W 80+ Silver Monitor 1: 22''Asus AL2216W Sound: Onboard, is pretty nice on this too. Cooling: 3x Corsair 120mm fans, 1x 230mm Corsair Fan, 2x Thermaltake 100+ CFM fans going in as soon as I can mount them Keyboard: Razer Lycosa Mouse: Logitech G5 OS: Windows 7 Ultimate 64-bit I can't wait to get into this thing and start OC'ing it..

What operating system? If Windows 7, go to Start, Control Panel, Network and Sharing Center, click on "Change Adapter Settings" on the left hand side. Find your ethernet port (chances are you only have one, but if you have a mobo like mine you might have two), right click on it and click "Disable." Possibly you might have to restart, and it should work. When you want it to work again, do it in reverse and click Enable instead.

That is definitely an odd problem.. the easiest solution I could think of would be what I suggested before, copy your important files over and reinstall Windows. It'll take about 30-45 minutes. This is all assuming you have Windows 7. In your original post, you didn't specify which version, but being how new your components are I'm assuming you have Windows 7. If you're determined to get this copy working without reformating, have you tried running chkdisk or letting the full repair function work? Have you tried using a different USB port and then booting? Have you tried unplugging everything but what you need (ie, monitor, keyboard, mouse, and maybe an ethernet cable) and then booting? Another question, if changing the boot priority to D: first works, why not just leave it as is?

The reason it "shut down" when you left it on overnight is (assuming you didn't edit these) Window's power-saving features. By default, after 4 hours the computer will go into sleep mode, meaning it'll shut the hard drive off so when you come back you'll get a quick boot up. That's all well said, but some drives apparently have serious problems with this, and after a few times just refuse to work. (After re-reading your first post.. I'm guessing this isn't your problem?) I guess maybe I don't understand your question completely. What do you mean by you "made the D: drive the boot?" The only way to make the non-system drive the boot drive is to copy the boot manager\boot folder over is using something like BCDEdit, so maybe I'm confused. Or is D: a CD\DVD drive? Does the system boot at all (into Windows, not talking about the USB devices) when you have the "C:" drive selected as the boot? I'm guessing it does from what I'm reading, so that's a good sign. My first suggestion would be to try using a program like DriverSweeper to delete all the USB\HID-related drivers installed on your system, restart and let the automatic driver install take it's course. If that doesn't work (and unless you answer this and tell me something completely different..) I'd suggest copying everything important onto another drive and formatting\re-installing Windows. If it was a dead drive, you would have gotten a BSOD (which you wouldn't have seen had you been asleep) followed by it telling you either the MBR was messed up, or the system can't boot. If the drive is on it's way out, it'll normally make grinding\clicking\scratching noises long before it dies.

Why don't you try the freeware version of XPadder? I personally use MotionJoy, but that's to make a PS3 controller emulate an XBox controller, since for some reason my Microsoft Wireless Adapter died. I have owned full versions of both XPadder and Pinnacle, and I can tell you they are definitely worth $20. Back when Bioshock first came out, I was using Pinnacle as my key mapper. You can set up each game's executable to trigger the certain settings group.. and well there's a load of features on it I can't recall. There are certainly more ways to do it.. if you've spent any decent amount of time online you should be able to find out how quite easily.

Chassis: Ultra Aluminus MB: EVGA nForce 680i LT SLI CPU: Intel Core 2 Quad Q6600 @ 3.1 Ghz Heatsink: Noctua NH-D14 GPU: Gigabyte Geforce GTX560Ti 1GB (OC'ed a bit) RAM: OCZ SLI 2GB DDR2 HD: 1x 120gb WD (IDE, my main drive died a month ago) and 1x 500GB WD SATA PSU: Ultra 750W 80+ Silver Monitor 1: 22''Asus AL2216W Sound: Onboard, works great for my recording. Cooling: 2x Thermaltake 100+ CFM fans Keyboard: Razer Lycosa Mouse: Logitech G5 OS: Windows 7 Ultimate 64-bit I built this about 3 years ago and it's still going strong.. I replaced the GPU (original was 2x 9800GTX+s), case fans (originally had 1x 140+CFM in the back) and the heatsink (original was Thermaltake V1, the fan finally died) a month ago in preparation for building my new PC, but now that this is still running things strong, I might wait until Ivy Bridge..or go with Sandy Bridge and get the i5 2500k like I planned before. Other than that, I refuse to buy a harddrive now. I'm not paying $120 for a 1T HDD I could have bought for $60 4 months ago, so I'll suck it up and deal with very low space... next one is having an SSD for the boot drive anyway.

I actually have three copies (still have them too). That's only really because I was into Sega GT 2002, thought I lost the first one\had the second one stolen. Turns out they were just hidden in some junk years later. But yeah, JSRF was a neat concept for sure. I did enjoy playing it for a couple hours, although never really got into it.