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Di0nysys

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  1. Same here. Really slow download speeds on Supporter membership (~6kb up to 30kb), with downloads stalling shortly after starting. Must be the heavy traffic going on atm.
  2. Start with the basics; import a 1x1 basic floor tile from the game you're working for. Then use that tile's basic dimensions to guide your project. From here, start making your pieces. Build out your walls to a multiple of the floor tile's dimensions. I'd first sketch out the general style I want for my piece, then eventually use this guideline to build individual ornamental pieces to spruce up the kit with later on (for example, Dwemer tileset's gears, pistons, cupboards, etc). Also, when building your kit, make sure you turn on snapping in the 3d editor you're using, and adjust the tiling values to correspond to Skyrim's. For every tileset you usually need: Halls 1wayhalls (wall on either side with roof) 2wayhalls (hallway that bends at a 90 degree) 3wayhalls (hallway that bends at a 90 degree, but allows 3 ways of traversal) 4wayhalls (...) halltodoorpiece (piece that converts from hallway to room - one of its walls would be able to align to roomwallentrance*) hallwayend (a 1 way hall piece, much like the 1way but capped at one end) and Rooms roomwall (side wall + floor + roof) roomwallentrance* (side wall but with door shaped piece inside + floor + roof) roomcornerin(2 side walls at 90 degree angle, turned in + floor + roof) roommid (basically floor + roof) Have a look at what Bethesda did with their kits. Ofc course you can do a lot more depending on what you need. You can make iterations on this whether you want bigger halls, which then you increase the multiplication factor, or smaller tighter ones depending. But most importantly, the dimensions of all these pieces need to be exact to the reference scale we used earlier. After you've done the basic grey box kit, then you can move on to uniformly arting them up, adding in all the bells whistles and making variations. This is by no means THE way to do it, but its the way that works for me. You could also fully art up the individual building blocks first, ie make fully completed wall pieces, floor pieces, roof pieces, ornaments, etc and then use those to build your kit instead.
  3. It's a vanilla bug that sometimes manifests when you have roombounds in your interior cell, and it will happen regardless of positioning of the object, for a lot of vanilla objects. For whatever reason, certain animated meshes like the animated mushrooms will refuse to render when you place them in an interior that has roombounds setup. To test if this is the case, make sure to try them in an external cell first.
  4. TES5LODGenx64 pretty much covers everything nowadays. Lots of options for terrain, object and tree lod generation. Its very powerful and it allows you to bypass preparing all your textures for Oscape to be able to generate terrain lods properly.
  5. Copy and rename a Skyrim.esm into anything else, this will let you cut and remove as many records from it as you want. So long as you don't renumber any formid's, you'll be able to use that as a master after renaming it into Skyrim.esm. Worldspace and cell records are the biggest records by far. I'd start there.
  6. A lot of the Nord NPCs complain about non-Nord races being in Skyrim. If you speak to the Argonian workers at the Windhelm docks, as well as the people around the Grey Quarter, they tell you how they're treated as second class. A lot of Nords do hold racist views. I like this aspect of the world in Skyrim, no one faction really holds on to the moral high ground, and it makes the world more believable that way.
  7. I usually don't stick to the vault suit because it wouldn't make sense for me to wear it in that situation. It paints a giant blue crosshair on your back in the wasteland, you would naturally want to stand out less if you were in that situation. I usually wear it just until i've found anything else. Design wise, its pretty decent, i prefer it over the Fallout 3 style.
  8. It's not enough to change imagespaces, you need to tweak the ambient light, directional, fog, etc values in the cell settings to achieve that effect.
  9. You could just do it with the original trap, just make sure you don't touch any of the activator collisions. Those are usually rendered in blue in Nifskope.
  10. Just use a defaultActivateSelfTRIG, it sends activate events the second you enter this trigger. Then have whatever trap object you're using have the defaultActivateSelfTRIG as it's activate parent. In the mesh, the only thing you need to delete is the art model. Leave everything else intact, especially the event, controller and animation data as the game needs them to activate the trap.
  11. Did you navmesh your dungeon? NPC's need navmesh for the game to know where to put them.
  12. SSELODGen can now handle all aspects of lod generation. Checkout their Nexus page. The tool is great with tons of options.
  13. The Heightmap editor could do the trick for you, but its a toss up whether it'll function for you or not as it's not a very stable tool.
  14. I would go into the heightmap editor and just flatten the entire thing with the flatten brush. Then start all over again. It is particularly buggy thou, so it may not work for you, but this is what i do to fix it.
  15. You could, but one major drawback of this approach is you won't be able to color the land mesh in CK, nor apply grass covers as effectively. It's also gonna require more work creating lod. And just in case you wanted to edit the landscape at any point, you'll have to completely re-import your mesh, cell by cell. Not recommended imo.
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