pathi Posted April 9, 2012 Share Posted April 9, 2012 There were some obscure ways with very old hardware (floppy drives, CRT displays), but the process was usually very obvious, took considerable time, and had a very small success rate. None of these ever spread anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dubnoman Posted April 10, 2012 Author Share Posted April 10, 2012 Thank you everyone. I tried adding some plus rep points, but I have to log into TES Nexus for that. I forgot my login details for there. So, I may have a motherboard problem (just saying it is possible). First, I have to make sure my PSU is actually dead or not. I should go to a computer shop and have them see if my PSU is dead or not. I just hope they don't charge much for such a simple thing. I can only get that service at an independently owned computer shop, huh? Not at a Staples, by any chance? I just don't know any computer shops nearby. I'll look around my area for one. The closest one is probably 20 minutes away, maybe even 30 minutes away. That corsair that was recommended to me has a four out of five rating and I've seen some PSUs that have more ratings and have a five out of five rating, but FMod, you say I can't go wrong with that one PSU you recommended? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FMod Posted April 10, 2012 Share Posted April 10, 2012 First, I have to make sure my PSU is actually dead or not. I should go to a computer shop and have them see if my PSU is dead or not. I just hope they don't charge much for such a simple thing. It might cost you money, unless you bought your PSU there. It's hardly a good idea to invest money, time and gas into saving what's going to be an old, not-so-good PSU. You can test it at home anyway. Here's how:1) Unplug everything from it. Get it out of the case.2) Connect a fan to the 4-pin molex output, assuming you have any that you can connect. 3) Plug the PSU in.4) Take a piece of wire and briefly short-circuit the green cable with any black cable on the 24-pin output. You should hear the PSU start its fan. The other fan should start too. That corsair that was recommended to me has a four out of five rating and I've seen some PSUs that have more ratings and have a five out of five rating, but FMod, you say I can't go wrong with that one PSU you recommended?These "eggs" are not a result of professional testing, it's just what users click, so don't put much stock in them. Can be useful to filter out lemons (if you see something with 1 or 2, it's probably trouble), but not much more than that. There are better PSU out there than Corsair TXV2, but they will cost you a lot more (usually well over $100). It's not the quietest PSU out there, but let's quantify. Out of retail grade PSU in its power range, in terms of noise level it's about top 25%, power delivery quality top 10%, build quality top 5%, efficiency top 30% (good 80+ Bronze). The Antec you were considering is about top 50% in noise level, power quality and build quality, and lower 50% in efficiency (80+, but not Bronze or above). It's their bottom-end unit. And it's 5 year warranty from Corsair vs 1 year from Antec, for $5 difference it's a no-brainer. TXV2 is currently the best bargain among power supplies, it's on par or better than the HX line, while priced just a bit above the old TX. And it's good even at its regular price of $120, getting one for $75 with shipping is almost a steal. If you were looking for a PSU in the $150-$200 range, I'd have other suggestions (both Seasonic and CWT units). In the $250-$500 range, other suggestions as well (Platinum rated supplies from Seasonic, Antec, Kingwin, Enermax; in kilowatt range, SS-1000XP is the reigning champion, above a kilowatt you have no choice but to look at others). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dubnoman Posted April 13, 2012 Author Share Posted April 13, 2012 I should get a new PSU today; in the mail. When I ground myself with a metal object that is already grounded, well, what should I use? What is some metal found in houses that is grounded? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FMod Posted April 14, 2012 Share Posted April 14, 2012 1. Partial grounding is trouble. Never "ground yourself" on purpose.2. You are safe as long as no more than one of your limbs is connected to an electrical circuit in any way. 3. If more than one of your limbs comes into contact with electrical circuits, these circuits must be connected. The most common grounded object in your home is any metal pipe, be it water, heating, anything else. Heating appliances are generally grounded even when electric. The second is anything plugged into a wall socket that contains a grounding wire. These are 3-pin plugs in 3-pin sockets. Sound amplifiers are very commonly grounded, sometimes TVs. And of course your PC case is supposed to be. One limb means a very short circuit. For an average healthy adult (not everyone), even full 120V there only stings a bit; I got maybe a few hundred such shocks over time, including with voltages higher than 120 VAC. But any circuit between two hands is trouble, it goes through your torso, and even a healthy person with lowered skin resistance risks consequences up to cardiac arrest. The risk is still small, but not dismissible like with one hand. If you want to avoid getting a shock, just keep good track of your limbs and make sure to 1) only touch powered equipment with one hand (at a time), 2) not touch anything conductive with any other limb.This shouldn't really be an issue at all when installing a PSU, as you're going to unplug everything first. If your question is about static electricity rather than safety, just touch anything large and conductive at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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