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Why is my computer being a pouty 5 year old?


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This is confusing me!

 

I recently left my computer on overnight and something happened overnight while it was hibernating that suddenly caused my computer to reboot. No idea as to why. The thing is, that after the reboot, my keyboard and mouse stopped working. Like a stubborn 5 year old, it just sat there pouting. >.>

 

So I tried a number of things but am unable to get it to work. I know that there is power to those ports as I rebooted but made my D: Drive the boot source and everything loaded up with no problems, the keyboard and mouse work just fine. So really, what the heck is going on?

 

I went here to this site and tried this ----> http://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/forum/windows_7-hardware/usb-ports-do-not-work-after-the-computer-boots-to/8c4a1033-63d5-4edd-9376-fe8923eea0f2

 

And this -----> http://support.microsoft.com/kb/928631

 

And none of this helped at all! My default HDD isn't working at all when it comes to allowing the mouse and keyboard to work properly.

 

I am currently using Windows Home Premium 64 Bit and the C: HDD is a WD Caviar Green Model: SS-WDC WD20EARX 000PASBO <----The one that ISNT working.....

 

Any help is appreciated and thanks in advance.

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It booted successfully to drive D: ?

 

Is that a recovery partition on drive C: or a second physical drive?

 

If it's a recovery partition, try booting into safe mode and do a system restore.

 

Other than that, as Fonger said, your computer hates you.

 

Pouty computers suck.

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What this computer really needs is a stick of DYNAMITE....

 

The two drives I mentioned are actually separate drives. Trying to find information on how to fix this particular problem is sheer frustration. As for customer support let me say this. When the person cant stop eating chips for 10 seconds to help you, listening for any advice is moot. >.> I guess I will keep plodding onwards....

 

Thanks for the help so far though everyone.

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So apparently now I was forced to do a repair on my computer after it got hung up, refused to close any windows and was missing a sys32 file. The repair feature fixed it, but I am still having a hell of a time with getting the main C: drive to load the drivers for my mouse and keyboard. What the heck do I have to do to fix these do ya think? Any thoughts?

 

Is this perhaps a hardware failure? The C:drive is like brand new, so I dont think the problem is with that. I need someone with a better knowledge of Windows than me to point me in the right direction.

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What this computer really needs is a stick of DYNAMITE....

can't imagine you using just one

 

 

 

and yes it does sound like your new drive is completely gone :facepalm:

 

did you cheese off a sibbling?? or maybe kill your hardware rep's dog?

Edited by Fonger
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The reason it "shut down" when you left it on overnight is (assuming you didn't edit these) Window's power-saving features. By default, after 4 hours the computer will go into sleep mode, meaning it'll shut the hard drive off so when you come back you'll get a quick boot up. That's all well said, but some drives apparently have serious problems with this, and after a few times just refuse to work. (After re-reading your first post.. I'm guessing this isn't your problem?)

 

I guess maybe I don't understand your question completely.

 

What do you mean by you "made the D: drive the boot?" The only way to make the non-system drive the boot drive is to copy the boot manager\boot folder over is using something like BCDEdit, so maybe I'm confused. Or is D: a CD\DVD drive?

 

Does the system boot at all (into Windows, not talking about the USB devices) when you have the "C:" drive selected as the boot? I'm guessing it does from what I'm reading, so that's a good sign.

 

My first suggestion would be to try using a program like DriverSweeper to delete all the USB\HID-related drivers installed on your system, restart and let the automatic driver install take it's course. If that doesn't work (and unless you answer this and tell me something completely different..) I'd suggest copying everything important onto another drive and formatting\re-installing Windows.

 

If it was a dead drive, you would have gotten a BSOD (which you wouldn't have seen had you been asleep) followed by it telling you either the MBR was messed up, or the system can't boot. If the drive is on it's way out, it'll normally make grinding\clicking\scratching noises long before it dies.

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Hi Kimberlee,

 

i have had such issues some time ago too. Not that worse like yours, but worse enough for me. My problem was my 5 year old Western Digital Raptor (10000rpm HDD). I've had a look into the smart values and there were some errors inside, i've bought a new SSD and now i'm fine again.

The thing is your WD EARS (it's the 2TB Cavier Green with Intellidrive, right?) is new, to be honest i have it inside my computer too, its a nice storage drive. I have read that this HDD can cause trouble with Windows XP or a 32bit Windows (can't remember where it was, sorry :( ). What i would suggest is to clone your c drive to another separate hdd. You can use HDD-Clone for it, its free. If your computer is running fine after that you know it has a problem with the 2TB HDD, if not you know at least it is not the disk. Another thing that could cause such trouble are damaged RAM modules. Maybe you can test this with taking one out and having a look what will happen?

 

Okay, these are my ideas for it, hope it helps a little,

 

Sarah

 

Edit: Have seen you have written EARX, but my suggestion using a different one for a test would be the same.

Edited by Paxan_1
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I am still having a hell of a time with this, but before I make another attempt at it I would like to say first of all thank you for the help so far.

 

I am likely not including enough information so I will make a better attempt at laying this out. I am super frustrated that I can't figure this out so here goes.

 

I have two HDDs in this computer. The following is information I got from SIW. (http://www.gtopala.com/)

 

Harddrive 1

 

Manufacturer Seagate

Model ST3320620A

Size 320.0 GB

Firmware Version 3.AAC

Serial Number 5QF0827C

Interface Serial ATA

Standard ATA/ATAPI-7 | ----

Advanced Format Supported No

Transfer Mode (Current / Max) SATA-150 / SATA-150

Features S.M.A.R.T., 48bit LBA

Power Cycle Count 465

Temperature 39 C (102 F)

Drive Letter(s) C:

Controller Buffer Size on Drive 16384 KB

Removable No

Cache Enabled (Read / Write) Yes / Yes

SMART Support Yes

Attribute Name Attribute Value Worst Value Threshold Value Raw Data

Raw Read Error Rate (01) 109 076 006 0000017B7D18

Spin Up Time (03) 092 089 000 000000000000

Start/Stop Count (04) 099 099 020 0000000006E9

Reallocated Sector Count (05) 098 098 036 000000000062

Seek Error Rate (07) 088 060 030 00002EB41E4C

Power On Hours Count (09) 077 077 000 00000000500C

Spin Retry Count (0A) 100 100 097 000000000000

Power Cycle Count (0C) 100 100 020 0000000001D1

[unknown] (BB) 001 001 000 000000001579

[unknown] (BD) 001 001 000 00000000051A

Airflow Temperature (BE) 061 035 045 000527260027

HDA Temperature (C2) 039 065 000 001000000027

ECC On The Fly Count (C3) 076 046 000 00000D832557

Current pending sector count (C5) 001 001 000 000000001975

Off-line uncorrectable sector count (C6) 001 001 000 000000001975

Ultra ATA CRC Error Rate (C7) 200 200 000 000000000000

Multi Zone Error Rate (C8) 100 253 000 000000000000

Data Address Mark Errors (CA) 100 253 000 000000000000

 

Harddrive 2

 

Manufacturer Western Digital

Model WDC WD20EARX-00PASB0

Size 2000.3 GB

Firmware Version 51.0AB51

Serial Number WD-WMAZA6060997

Interface Serial ATA

Standard ATA8-ACS | ----

Advanced Format Supported N/A

Transfer Mode (Current / Max) SATA-600 / SATA-600

Features S.M.A.R.T., 48bit LBA, NCQ

Power Cycle Count 79

Temperature 32 C (89 F)

Drive Letter(s) D:

Queue Depth 32

Removable No

Cache Enabled (Read / Write) Yes / Yes

SMART Support Yes

Attribute Name Attribute Value Worst Value Threshold Value Raw Data

Raw Read Error Rate (01) 200 200 051 000000000000

Spin Up Time (03) 173 159 021 0000000018CE

Start/Stop Count (04) 100 100 000 00000000008C

Reallocated Sector Count (05) 200 200 140 000000000000

Seek Error Rate (07) 200 200 000 000000000000

Power On Hours Count (09) 098 098 000 000000000865

Spin Retry Count (0A) 100 100 000 000000000000

Calibration Retry Count (0B) 100 253 000 000000000000

Power Cycle Count (0C) 100 100 000 00000000004F

Power-off retract count (C0) 200 200 000 000000000019

Load/unload cycle count (C1) 183 183 000 00000000CA14

HDA Temperature (C2) 118 110 000 000000000020

Reallocation event count (C4) 200 200 000 000000000000

Current pending sector count (C5) 200 200 000 000000000000

Off-line uncorrectable sector count (C6) 200 200 000 000000000000

Ultra ATA CRC Error Rate (C7) 200 200 000 000000000000

Write Error Rate (C8) 200 200 000 000000000000

 

 

Harddrive 2 - the 2TB WD Caviar was my main C:Drive. After leaving my computer on over night by accident (I fell asleep), I woke up to a black screen. Hit the power button, started up the computer after a reboot and everything loaded up just fine. Only when it got to the desktop screen and my wallpaper (Boone's handsome face from Fallout New Vegas), the keyboard and mouse didn't work. At all. Now there is definately power at the USB for these ports as the pretty lights on the mouse are all lighting up, but neither the keyboard or the mouse work at all. What I did was enter into the BIOS Setup utility and changed the boot priority to my D: Drive (Harddrive 1) and when THAT booted up the mouse and the keyboard worked just fine.

 

So what I did was go into the device manager and right-click the first USB controller under Universal Serial Bus controllers, and then click Uninstall to remove it. I continued down the list uninstalling ALL the controllers in the list. When I rebooted after changing the boot priority BACK to Harddrive 2, the problem remained. No mouse and no keyboard.

 

I am confident I can figure this out, I just don't know what my next step is.

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That is definitely an odd problem.. the easiest solution I could think of would be what I suggested before, copy your important files over and reinstall Windows. It'll take about 30-45 minutes.

 

This is all assuming you have Windows 7. In your original post, you didn't specify which version, but being how new your components are I'm assuming you have Windows 7. If you're determined to get this copy working without reformating, have you tried running chkdisk or letting the full repair function work? Have you tried using a different USB port and then booting? Have you tried unplugging everything but what you need (ie, monitor, keyboard, mouse, and maybe an ethernet cable) and then booting?

 

Another question, if changing the boot priority to D: first works, why not just leave it as is?

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