zaty1

Ok, woot - some interest :) Took a few more ss - sorry if they are dark or not the greatest. The mesh isn't really stitched or tweaked- just flat out in chunks. Using checker pattern/flat normalmap No Decal- http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b41/natyla/ScreenShot46.jpg With Decal- http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b41/natyla/ScreenShot44.jpg With Decal/different time- http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b41/natyla/ScreenShot47.jpg This particular spot at the handle - doesn't always do this - it is seemingly random. 2 more - predominantly of a UV seam - same model/ingame test - different blood decals Cutoff at seam- http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b41/natyla/ScreenShot50.jpg Seam is ok- http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b41/natyla/ScreenShot51.jpg I doublechecked for broken vertices on the model, tried various mesh smoothing methods, and I even cursed at it. No luck. I almost am beginning to wonder if it is related to the d3d9.dll tweaks or even a Nvidia vs Ati driver issue. (Using Nvidia myself) Gonna try to add myself all the vanilla melee weps, and see if any of those show signs of funkyness, and then look at their .nif too. Heck, I might just redo the model but use a different construction method for it - I am still learning so, maybe approaching it differently will solve it. (Or atleast build some test objects with various angles/mesh) Lemme know if you need some more pictures. Thanks :) Edit: Going to try to just make the stitch the UV to the least seams possible (probably should anyways) and see if that helps? I dunno, I get to drink tonight so... maybe tomorrow.

Howdy, I am having some issues with a new model I am working on. The blood decals are not properly displaying on the weapon. http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b41/natyla/ScreenShot36.jpg http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b41/natyla/wonkyblooddecals.jpg Edit: http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b41/natyla/ScreenShot43.jpg (Ignore the texture- WIP!) The 2 links should give you an idea. I have tried all sorts of things to fix this - as I didn't have a very noticeable issue with my knives - using my cobbled together "process". At first I thought it was the mesh smoothing, couple clicks of a mouse - same problem. It also, is just not those spots I linked - its random, those just best illustrate. I've tried using decals from 5-7 diff vanilla weapons now - same effect. I've gotten suggestions to scale up/down the decals/model - same issue. Have poked around with tspaceflags (albeit - severe lack of knowledge there) still no results. I duplicated all the settings in my knife model for the heck of it - no luck. (Though that gives me an idea to try) The only thing I know I've done differently, and am in process of changing - was I mirrored/overlapped my UV for each side of the blade. Is that possibly the issue? (Tested - 3rd pic -flattened UV - plain green texture - same effects) Or anyone else have any clues or ideas? I could just remove them, or let them stay messed up but that annoys me - highly. Any help would be much appreciated.

xGESPENSTx, correct me if I am wrong, but my understanding is that- If you have 2 mods, say one adds a coke to a merchant, and one adds a pepsi- Using your method, whichever mod loads last, will be the one that appears on the merchant. Hence the need for scripting so there is no conflict on the formlist and both objects will appear. (We could debate mod merging but- my preference is ease of use for the larger majority of users) That is what I have gathered atleast from reading around.

I would make sure you have the quest made, and its start game enabled. Simply making the script doesn't cut it. Once that is verified, make a new script - make sure to set the type to quest. (If this does anything, I have no clue, but I did it in my script.) If THAT doesn't work, I would probably kill the parenthesis from the If statement and use: if iDoOnce == 0 Otherwise, the script is nearly identical to the one I use for my knives, which works. There is a tiny mistake somewhere and I listed the ones that pop to the front. Hope this helps.

Nevermind. I believe we got it sorted out.

Greetings, I don't quite understand where the flamebaiting comes in. The Ulysses character was pretty bad in chat. I simply had to chuckle (my rofl - I believe there were 2 in a short time) when BlackBaron2 entered the chat and Ulysses responded with the "o.o". I truly had no intentions of flamebaiting or being drug into the conversation. I understand there are rules here, just simply seeking a clarification of what line I crossed to receive a strike. All the same, I apologize - and sorry for this message if it wastes your time. /salute Thankyou. EDIT by LHammonds: irregardless of what Ulyssess did, it was quite rude of everyone to gang up on him and everybody that participated got a strike...even if it was just laughing. Ant119 is banned and lucky for Ulyssess, he got out without hardly a scratch..other than him getting kicked out of chat. I won't stand for such behavior.

Hello, I too had this issue and I opt'd to simply use the CookStove Furniture item. Changed the ID for the heck of it, and attached the CraftingCampfire script to it. Whambam done, without importing/exporting anything. Works perfectly for what I intend(ed) to do with it.

http://www.fallout3nexus.com/downloads/file.php?id=8143 I think.

http://www.fallout3nexus.com/downloads/file.php?id=5344 Vehicle, not car... :(

For the unattached objects, you can cheese the excess faces by deleting the ones samwiched between the objects, but that doesn't always work especially if one of them is larger in size than the other. It also takes up space on the texture, valuable space better used for something else. Attaching all the parts also cleans up the model, especially if there aren't seams on the faces that intersect since there is no visual cues to tell where to draw the seams when you do the texture. It is good you got the one to lay out flat like it should. As far as selecting faces, should be easy to drag/select quantities of them. Also, you might be able to go back to the seams method and map out all the flat sides, or pieces, or however you want to do it. There might even be other options to use instead of flat or projection, like sphere/cylinder/or box. I really think you are almost there - you got one down and know a bit more to the process. Just need to do the rest and then arrange for a good layout/wireframe and get texturing. Think of eventually aiming to texture like a shrink wrap, thats all you need, and all you should aim for. Lol, edited this post like 6 times.

Do you actually see items disappearing off the model as you delete them in nifskope? Or, simply click on pieces of the model and see which item it highlights on the left side. You also should be able to look at the model in blender - and I am assuming here - pull up some kind of list to view all the objects composing your phonograph. To check for any of those potential duplicates you spoke of, not sure on that one. As far as the "hollow" comment I am refering to combining surfaces and subtracting the parts that intersect. Example - you make a cube and a sphere, stick half the sphere into the cube. That half, that is in the cube - should ideally be removed - merging the cube and the half sphere together. Doubt I am explaining it properly, but it is similar to the boolean functions of add/remove/intersection and such. Hard to tell how the model is composed from nonwireframe pictures. It is also possible you constructed the model, and nothing intersects anywhere - however, they are still seperate objects/pieces of your model. Kind of like - making 2 cubes, and putting them side by side. Sure, they can appear as 1 model, and they are both hollow - however the 2 faces that are touching are totally useless to the creation of the model. They also contribute 4 corners/edges/vertices to anything that might autounwrap a model. For unwrapping stuff by hand, I generally just select what I want to unwrap by face, and hit unwrap and cycle the options til my selection doesn't look distorted and move onto the next section. Blender may vary, and I am half tempted to install it to poke around now. Maybe there is a seperate button or something to hit to only unwrap the items that are selected - opposed to automatically doing the entire mesh. You can't really apply the wireframe jpg to the model until after you have successfully unwrapped it. And that I assume would just be a function of assigning a material to the model, select the jpg and tada. EDIT: Yes, that selection you made to churn out your first picture link of just the turntable. Are there any other options to change the orientation of the unwrap? Or even an easy way to just stitch together all the seams of the turntable. It would make a perfect circle/panel of that for you.

May or may not help, but looking at your pictures has me asking if your phonograph is all 1 mesh, 2 or 3 - and if it is hollow. That was one of my problems when I first got into making stuff. Making intricate details and layers and such, and then hiding 75% of the item inside something else made a mess. You could turn on wireframe to find out, or just know - just something to check. IF that is the case, I'd strongly recommend refining the model. The screenshot of nifskope seems to suggest there are many objects. I could be wrong though, I'm still rather new/learning myself. Then again, I'd imagine the phonograph is a static/item and not a weapon. The structure within the .nif could be drastically different. I don't have any tutorials to link, I just made do understanding the general process and experimenting from there. Then again, that explains why I hand unwrap the stuff I make - but I do that for other reasons. Perhaps you could try that, OR, maybe you are missing a step. Try selecting say - 1 side of the phonograph - not counting the framing. Or maybe the top of the deck where the record lays. I'm not all familiar with blender so if you've already done this, I apologize for lack of usefulness. However, I feel you are there - just a single step is missing somewhere. As far as the texture/uvwrap - I generally make mine, export it as a jpg or something, and then turn around and apply it to the model. THEN, I export it. Redundant, who knows - is what I do and hasn't given me trouble yet with displaying "A" texture in nifskope. Let us know how it goes, or maybe zip the file to someone that has more knowledge that both of us to take a peek if we can't figure out a solution.

Read your post, and quickly opened GECK to poke around and a few things come to mind/ or I noticed. 1) Both the rattle(CG01rattle), and the ball(CG01Toy05) appear to NOT be weapons, just miscellaneous items. 2) There is both a PHYRubberball, and PHYBabyRattle listed - I presume, with their own custom sounds. 3) In your list of sounds associated for havok material, starting at 0 and to 30 - I can only assume 31 = none. 4) I would also assume they could name the nif.xml something else maybe, dunno. I'd start with changing the rattle or rubberball nif's to point to a legitimate material first in the 0-30 range to see if that adds/overides their current sounds and work from there. Disclaimer, its 3:30am and I've been staring at vertices for 5 hours, this was just a small break - if all this is hogwash, I apologize. :)

http://www.fallout3nexus.com/downloads/file.php?id=10989 Maybe that will help. ;)

Sounds like portals between rooms/viewable areas - or lack thereof. If I remember correctly (haven't worked on mapping for a couple months now) that those were hidden/just not automatically displayed. You needed to view everything + hidden before copying a map, but I could be wrong.

Hmm, I just now replicated the WorldObjects\Container\Clutter\Junk\ToolboxContainer - changed the name/form id by sticking "zat" infront of each one. I then removed the cluttertoolboxlist from the itemlist - then added some ammo - 555 for the count. I then stuck it inside my home to test - and it worked. The only thing I can think of is you didn't remove the clutter list from the toolbox. (That is- assuming you wanted your item to be the only thing in the container.) I tested also by adding the cluttertoolbox75 list back to my container and set it for a count of 3. It then gave me 2 junk items, and then the ammo I had added. Coincidence maybe if there is a certain % chance of 1-3 items showing up in a toolbox. Outside of that, I dunno - I am still learning myself. I just know the above method worked for me by making it the only object in the container.

Did you rightclick/delete the objects in the Item List window in the properties of your new container? Then rightclick/new/select the new item you just added then adjust it with the object dropdown/count/health? Those are the steps I took to add/fill the container I just made for my little nuka helmet - note included. The retexturing is/should be just as easy as the armor retextures you did.

Update: It is working as I was imagining now. Phoynix mentioned the right thing with copy/paste the tristrips/shapes data. Although, I had already done that - it didn't work. After a nap and another shot at it; I realized copying trishape and pasting it "over" tristrip wasn't doing what it was supposed to and I just wasn't noticing it. :wallbash: Enter stage right - stripify. Problem solved. :thanks:

I'm sorry, I think my initial post sucked - although I was trying not to give too much away. Thankyou for reading so far and let me try again with probably far too much detail. I have a retexture I am doing of my take on a Nuka sponsored contest - the prize being the nuka helmet - painted.. blah blah. It isn't supposed to be so much as an armor, but more similar to the Nuka trucks and the like - where it sits around on a shelf and doesn't do much else. (Yea, I know boring and stupid but for some people that like nuka themes it could be cool) Now, using that knowledge that it would sit on the ground - the usual GO model for the helmet looks like crap. I would prefer it to use the better model. This is the current model: http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b41/natyla/uglyonground.jpg This is what I would prefer dropping it on the ground to look like (I had to make someone wear it and behead them to get this to appear): http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b41/natyla/realisticonground.jpg If the posts above answered my question (or not), I will still attempt them so I know... Otherwise, I hope this post made it a bit more clear, essentially it is just a display piece for a shelf.

So, I've been working on a non-replacer helmet texture for powerarmor- that has been going along fine. I managed to get it into game, wear it, blah blah. However, if I drop it on the ground - it goes back to the horrible GO model. I would like to fix this, I would like to use the regular helmet model, as the GO model for only this particular helmet. I've fiddled around with nifskope, I've got the helmet to be in the same position and all that - but nothing is working. Whatever I end up saving either - doesn't work and CTDs, floats staticly in the air, or flies around at the end of my screen entirely useless. I know I am probably missing something stupid but... ugh. Normally, I'd be all about trying to figure this out on my own but, I've followed what tutorials I could find and spent countless hours playing around/making this texture and what not. Two days ago, I finally got over my fever, but I somehow got an ear infection, in both ears. I'm like permanently underwater, on medication, and other stuff. Someone please point be in the right direction before I start throwing punches at my monitor, or just can the entire project -.- Just a picture so far of texture- still needs some work, but I'd like to view said helmet ingame for lighting purposes etc - instead of oddly spinning around my character - or making the hockey guy wear it and blowing his head off... http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b41/natyla/nukapowerhelmet-wip.jpg

Check your messages. :)

Picked up a program awhile back for having fun over vent and other voice comms. Not sure if you can record it (logically I'd say you can - I just never tested it). Haven't reinstalled it because of the lack of need lately, but it is something you may/may not find interesting. It boasts alot of variables - I just never did much with it short of manually making myself sound like a gnome or a 300lbs inmate - LOL. Again, may or may not cover your needs/wants - but worth a shot :) Software is called AV VCS Diamond.