The last poster wins

[slayerpaul]

Hello! Is anyone here? :sad:

[K00L]

:ninja: Sneaks in, sneaks out.

[Iv000]

I just found out that my supposed 500W power supply, which the IT guys a few years ago installed without asking me for a model, is in fact a 260W one.

 

At least I think so, I really hope I'm just stupid and reading this wrong but, this clearly says the output is 260Watts

 

 

http://oi62.tinypic.com/15pk5tk.jpg

 

Why is my computer alive by now

[Thor.]

I can't stand built in pc's like LG they are so bad. No room for upgrade, best next time go custom.

Edited February 28, 2014 by Thor.

[Werne]

I just found out that my supposed 500W power supply, which the IT guys a few years ago installed without asking me for a model, is in fact a 260W one.

 

At least I think so, I really hope I'm just stupid and reading this wrong but, this clearly says the output is 260Watts

 

 

 

http://oi62.tinypic.com/15pk5tk.jpg

 

 

Why is my computer alive by now

3.3V rail - 3.3*28=92.4W

5V rail - 5*34=170W

12V rail - 12*16=192W

Minor12/5V rails - 12+2.5+5=19.5W

Total (peak) power throughput - 92.4+170+192=473.9W

Constant stable operational power - 260W

Fuse - 5A (1150W input power)

PSU efficiency - (100/473.9)*260=54.8~=55%

 

It's a 500W PSU that can give a total peak power of 473.9W before it explodes and a constant stable power output of 260W. Has a stupidly large fuse that has no use too, fuses should withstand only 10% more current than what is passing through the unit, for a decent 80+ Bronze 500W unit that fuse should be only 3A. If you ever had any crashing or system lockups when the PC is under full load, you can be damn sure that PSU was causing it.

 

Anyway... from what I can tell, that thing is a piece of crap that comes in a 200HRK case (costs about 100HRK new), my advice would be to get rid of it since those kinds of PSUs have a nasty habit of blowing up and frying your entire PC in the process. I recommend XFX Core Edition units, those are highly regarded quality units that can withstand even a constant 10% overload. It costs though, 600HRK for a 550W unit, but it's well worth it cause the rest of the components inside a PC are much more expensive than that thing is (and it'll last for a long, long time).

 

As a side note - that's why you don't buy pre-built computers and build it yourself instead, retail puts in the cheapest possible components that can theoretically drive the PC and overcharge for them like they're made out of gold. Like that mobo of yours, a hexa-core Phenom II with a board that doesn't even have VRM cooling, that CPU draws over 140W under load and it's voltage supply circuitry isn't cooled at all, it's like putting a time bomb inside a PC (that would be two time bombs if we count the PSU).

[Iv000]

 

I just found out that my supposed 500W power supply, which the IT guys a few years ago installed without asking me for a model, is in fact a 260W one.

 

At least I think so, I really hope I'm just stupid and reading this wrong but, this clearly says the output is 260Watts

 

 

 

http://oi62.tinypic.com/15pk5tk.jpg

 

 

Why is my computer alive by now

3.3V rail - 3.3*28=92.4W

5V rail - 5*34=170W

12V rail - 12*16=192W

Minor12/5V rails - 12+2.5+5=19.5W

Total (peak) power throughput - 92.4+170+192=473.9W

Constant stable operational power - 260W

Fuse - 5A (1150W input power)

PSU efficiency - (100/473.9)*260=54.8~=55%

 

It's a 500W PSU that can give a total peak power of 473.9W before it explodes and a constant stable power output of 260W. Has a stupidly large fuse that has no use too, fuses should withstand only 10% more current than what is passing through the unit, for a decent 80+ Bronze 500W unit that fuse should be only 3A. If you ever had any crashing or system lockups when the PC is under full load, you can be damn sure that PSU was causing it.

 

Anyway... from what I can tell, that thing is a piece of crap that comes in a 200HRK case (costs about 100HRK new), my advice would be to get rid of it since those kinds of PSUs have a nasty habit of blowing up and frying your entire PC in the process. I recommend XFX Core Edition units, those are highly regarded quality units that can withstand even a constant 10% overload. It costs though, 600HRK for a 550W unit, but it's well worth it cause the rest of the components inside a PC are much more expensive than that thing is (and it'll last for a long, long time).

 

As a side note - that's why you don't buy pre-built computers and build it yourself instead, retail puts in the cheapest possible components that can theoretically drive the PC and overcharge for them like they're made out of gold. Like that mobo of yours, a hexa-core Phenom II with a board that doesn't even have VRM cooling, that CPU draws over 140W under load and it's voltage supply circuitry isn't cooled at all, it's like putting a time bomb inside a PC (that would be two time bombs if we count the PSU).

 

 

Thanks for the explanation.

I built it myself, but the IT guys added the box to the parts I chose. I guess it's my fault for not thinking about the PSU and Motherboard, but I was 16 years old back then so. It didn't crash but my FPS in games is kinda slow, considering I'm looking at videos of people playing Far Cry 3 at Ultra and mine is not being optimal with med-high settings.

 

Now the question is if I should bother fixing it all and getting new parts (PSU, Mobo, Case), or not since I'm getting a laptop in summer for Uni.

[Thor.]

asfdasadsas night everyone, movies finally put in containers properly when that time to move in a months time...

[billyro]

ESO is much more fun when you have 3 people playing it at once. :)

[Werne]

Thanks for the explanation.

I built it myself, but the IT guys added the box to the parts I chose. I guess it's my fault for not thinking about the PSU and Motherboard, but I was 16 years old back then so. It didn't crash but my FPS in games is kinda slow, considering I'm looking at videos of people playing Far Cry 3 at Ultra and mine is not being optimal with med-high settings.

 

Now the question is if I should bother fixing it all and getting new parts (PSU, Mobo, Case), or not since I'm getting a laptop in summer for Uni.

FC3 needs an overclocked 7970/760 or a stock GTX 770 to reach 60FPS on ultra, a 7870/660 for 30FPS on ultra. Your 6870 is more in the line of 7790/R9 260X which are budget cards. That's assuming you have a 1080p screen which doesn't help one bit in regards to performance, my 1440x900 coupled with the same card can reach nearly double the FPS compared to coupling that card with a 1080p screen (my card can run Skyrim at 20-30FPS on a 1080p screen (ultra setting) while it runs at 45-60FPS on a 1440x900). But I got a trick or FC3 - disable MSAA and use FXAA instead through GamerProfile.xml, it'll skyrocket the framerate. :thumbsup:

 

And in regards to hardware, I go by a simple cost/efficiency math. In your case, AMD Phenom II 1090T is still one of the best processors when it comes to that, it overclocks like a dream (which means you don't have to spend money on a new CPU, just up the frequency and rock on) and doesn't cost much, it's a lot like my 8320 in that regard. But when coupled with that motherboard and a PSU that can't drive an overclocked unit, the CPU is literally castrated, you can't overclock it and it's stuck on stock frequency which means all you can do is replace the mobo/PSU (spending money, which hurts the machine's overall cost/efficiency).

 

When I buy hardware I look at it's price, stock performance and it's overclocking potential - the cheaper it is, the better it performs on stock and the better it overclocks, the better it's cost/performance is. No overclocking on a CPU drops it's cost/performance since you can't extend it's life, being expensive (like Intel's i5) also drops it's cost/performance since you pay a lot but don't get much. Couple a right unit with right hardware (like the combination in my sig, minus the card since I was aiming at 7850 but couldn't get it) and the PC can live for a long time just by upping the clocks on the CPU/GPU.

 

In my opinion, you're still in the clear, getting a new PSU/mobo that are decent quality runs around 1300HRK which is still a lot cheaper than an equally performing PC (just the card with performance like yours would cost you 1200HRK, a whole machine with identical performance to yours would be around 3500HRK or more). You'd also get some ~250HRK by selling off your old mobo/PSU which drops the expenses to 1050HRK. And all that brings overclocking into equation, so you don't have to go buy new hardware once yours becomes too weak, just up the frequency and rock on. Even with new parts it's still cost/efficient, just not as much as it would've been if you were to do it from the start.

[K00L]

ESO is much more fun when you have 3 people playing it at once. :smile:

 

I couldn't get my brothers to install it. :laugh: